This is the second of our four Big Island blogs because we couldn’t possibly cram everything we did into one! Adam found an awesome Airbnb on the east side of the island, so after our “welcome Luau” we drove 2.5 hours over to Pahoa. We were okay with the long drive once we crossed over the elevated walkway to our jungle oasis. The entire upper level is an open-air concept with screens for walls. The lower level has “real” concrete walls for the living quarters. But the true highlight of this place was the outdoor shower; it was quite magnificent to take a warm shower each night listening to the resounding chorus of chirping birds in the midst of the cold rain. This place was definitely off the beaten path, and we enjoyed taking the rollercoaster-like road through local neighborhoods to come home each night.
Our screened in living room!
Entering the living quarters!
View from our bedroom!
Outdoor shower!
Our screened in living room!
Entering the living quarters!
View from our bedroom!
Outdoor shower!
Isaac Kepo'okalani Hale Beach Park
The closest activity we did to our Airbnb was check out Hawaii’s newest state park. This was on Day 5 of our trip and our bodies were exhausted from going hard for the first four days, so we wanted to take it easy- but that didn’t mean staying put. We drove the 18 minutes northeast from our Airbnb along the coast toIsaac Kepo’okalani Hale Beach Park. It was created after the lower Puna eruption in 2018- now known for black sand and hot springs. We arrived just as the gates were opening at 9 am and bee-lined it to the hidden hot spring which you’ll find if you look for a path into the forest behind the largest hot spring in the middle of the beach. We were lucky enough to get this jungle oasis to ourselves. It was fabulous to stretch our muscles out in this natural pool heated by volcanic vents. Once we couldn’t handle the heat anymore, we meandered the park to check out the other natural pools and the rugged black sand/rock beach.
You know you found the hot spring when you see this sign.
Shaka Brah!
Checking out the larger hot pools.
The rugged coast of Isaac Kepookalani Hale Beach Park.
You know you found the hot spring when you see this sign.
Shaka Brah!
Checking out the larger hot pools.
The rugged coast of Isaac Kepookalani Hale Beach Park.
Waterfalls
The east side is also home to several waterfalls. There’s something majestic about these; whether it’s the surprise ones along the side of the road or the spectacular giants. Akaka Falls State Park has a paved 0.5-mile loop that exceeded our expectations. Soon after leaving the parking lot where you pay $5 per person, you are immersed into a lush jungle weaving through banyan trees and hibiscus flowers. And then suddenly you encounter the 442 ft tall Akaka Falls. The mist is so heavy that you can’t even see where it ends! After being captured by this park, we weren’t expecting an exciting drive to Rainbow Falls. Little did we know, we’d spot a 4-mile scenic detour and you bet we took it! Our Jeep meandered through windy canopy-covered roads as we kept our eyes peeled for the frequent surprise waterfalls. When we arrived at our destination, we realized Rainbow Falls didn’t require a hike to get to but was quite beautiful in the setting sun.
Strolling through the lush green jungle!
Spotted my favorite flower – Hibiscus!
Getting closer to the waterfall!
Akaka Falls
A glimpse of our detour!
Rainbow Falls
Strolling through the lush green jungle!
Spotted my favorite flower – Hibiscus!
Getting closer to the waterfall!
Akaka Falls
A glimpse of our detour!
Rainbow Falls
Kenichi
Hilo is the main city on the east side of the island, known for being rainy. After a day full of valleys (see our Big Island – NORTH blog → coming soon!) and waterfalls, we were ready for some warm food! Adam’s co-worker recommended a local Ramen spot called Restaurant Kenichi. They are only doing take-out orders right now due to COVID, so we grabbed our food to go and wandered down to the Hilo Harbor. We enjoyed our pot stickers, miso ramen, and fried rice with a view of the calm Hilo waters (due to a massive sea wall) and a hint of color left in the sky.
Restaurant Kenichi
Enjoying our takeout in the Hilo Harbor!
Restaurant Kenichi
Enjoying our takeout in the Hilo Harbor!
Mauna Kea
Another main attraction on the central-east side of the island is Mauna Kea, the highest point in the state of Hawaii at 13, 803 ft and some even say the world (if you count where the base of this volcano starts from the sea floor)! There are a couple ways to get to the summit of this volcano – by car or by foot – and we didn’t want to pick just one! We made our way to the Mauna Kea Visitor Information Station right away in the morning. We arrived at 8 am and were greeted by a very friendly ranger who advised us to remain at this altitude of 9,200 ft for at least 30 minutes before proceeding. As we stalled to acclimatize, we read that they didn’t advise people to start this hike to the summit after 8:15 a.m. We looked down at our Apple watches and noticed it was 8:25, so we quickly filled out their hiker registration form and started our trek! Another couple was starting at the same time and happened to be from the Midwest as well! We befriended them quickly and the four of us were hiking buddies for the ~4,600 ft elevation gain ahead. The rangers were helpful in finding the trailhead; you’ll find a sign labeled R-17 on the left-hand side of the road. Turn here and then go right at the Y. After that, the path is easy to follow. The first two miles of this hike are the steepest and on some loose gravel. After that it levels off, but the altitude makes it increasingly more challenging. Around 4.5 miles, there’s an option to go left for a quick detour to see Lake Waiau. We then retraced our steps to the main trail which meets up with the road at around 5.5 miles. The final mile of the hike is on the road. The true summit is saved as a sacred site for locals but getting to the top above the clouds and seeing all the telescopes up there is still awesome. We had a summit snack with our new friends and then opted to hike down the road instead of the trail for more solid footing. We enjoyed the views of red-tinted cones as we eccentrically loaded our quads for another 8.5 miles. It took us about 8 hours total to return to the Information Station. When we arrived at 4:30 p.m. the Information Station was bustling with tour vans ready to take people up for the sunset. We quickly hopped in our Jeep and switched into 4WD high to beat the crowds up this bumpy incline. It was fun to finally put the Wrangler to work! We were able to snag the perfect sunset viewing spot and popped the cover off to sit up top for an even better vantage point. We watched in awe as the sun colored the wispy clouds until setting below the cloud floor. Once it was gone, we gazed up into the night sky to take advantage of being extra close to the stars. We made sure to shift into 4WD low to save our brakes on the way down.
Mauna Kea Visitor Information Station
Walk up the road past the Visitor Station until you see this trail sign on the left.
Making the trek up!
Above the clouds!
Lake Waiau
Found the observatories and the summit trail.
Trying to stay warm up top!
Driving the Jeep up!
Enjoying the sunset above the clouds!
And just like that – it’s gone.
The telescopes starting to come out!
Star-gazing from the highest point in Hawaii!
Mauna Kea Visitor Information Station
Walk up the road past the Visitor Station until you see this trail sign on the left.
Making the trek up!
Above the clouds!
Lake Waiau
Found the observatories and the summit trail.
Trying to stay warm up top!
Driving the Jeep up!
Enjoying the sunset above the clouds!
And just like that – it’s gone.
The telescopes starting to come out!
Star-gazing from the highest point in Hawaii!
Pineapples
Needless to say, we were starving after all this physical exertion, so we stopped in downtown Hilo for dinner. There isn’t much night life on the big island, so we had slim pickings, but we were able to get a bar spot at Pineapples just before close. We sipped on Pina Colada and Mai Tai flights and devoured our Hawaiian burgers while listening to live island music and watching surf competitions on TV- can it get much more Hawaiian than this?!
Pineapples: one of the only restaurants open late in Hilo!
Pina Colada flight!
Pineapples: one of the only restaurants open late in Hilo!
Pina Colada flight!
We liked staying on the east side of the island because it seemed we got a glimpse of how the locals live and we were more secluded. We had to be flexible with our plans due to the rain, but we certainly enjoyed all the natural wonders the east side provides! Stay tuned for our next Big Island blog about the NORTH region!
You always need to keep your eyes peeled for rainbows here!